The capsule method works at any size, but the sourcing is harder — which makes it more important to know exactly what you are looking for before you shop.
Find the brands that fit, then stay
Sizing varies far more at the ends of the range. Once a brand’s cut works for you, buying the same trouser twice is a genuine strategy rather than a lack of imagination.
Structure beats drape for most frames
Fabrics with some body hold their shape; very fluid fabrics cling where you may not want them to. This is about the fabric, not the size.
Alterations are not optional
Off-the-peg proportions are least reliable at the extremes of a size range. Budget for a tailor as part of the cost of each piece.
Where to focus
Where to focus
- Two trousers from a brand whose cut you know
- Tops that fit at the shoulder first — everything else can be altered
- Fabrics with structure rather than cling
- One coat that closes comfortably over a jumper
- Shoes with genuine support
- A tailor you trust